Don’t Forget an Up-Close Trailer Inspection When Buying a Used Boat
So, you found your dream boat and can’t wait to tow it home. Make sure that you give the trailer a good close-up inspection. A good trailer will make your boating experience much more enjoyable – a bad one will be nothing but headaches. A trailer that is not roadworthy could cost you hundreds of dollars in repairs. If possible it's best to inspect a trailer when the boat is not sitting on it. The bunks and frame will be much easier to see. Start by walking around the trailer and looking at these points:
Frame and Fenders - Inspect the trailer frame for rust and peeling paint. You may have to sandblast and repaint problem areas. Fenders shouldn't be loose or rusted. Fenders are often used as a step, make sure they're still strong enough to support your weight.
Weight -The trailer specification label may be missing. To know a spring-axle trailer’s weight capacity, measure the diameter of the axle. An outer diameter (OD) axle tube size of 1.75” is typically rated for about one ton; 2.375” for 3,500 lbs.; and 3” for 5,200-7,000 lbs. – remember to subtract the weight of the trailer from the gross capacity.
Tires - Tire diameter matters – larger is better. After an hour at highway speeds, a 13-inch tire will have spun 10,000 revolutions more than a 15-inch tire, which means more heat, bearing wear and increased chance of problems. Having a good spare tire mounted on the trailer – and the tools to install it – will get you out of a jam on the side of the road.
Trailer Wiring - The connection between the trailer and your tow vehicle should be made through a quick-disconnect plug or connector. All wiring should be properly insulated and secured. Look for wire supports at every 18”. Wiring at bends, flex points, and near moving parts should be inspected for wear.
Lights & Reflectors - At a minimum, each trailer must have working brake lights and turn signals. Most boat trailers should display red side-marker lamps at the rear and amber side-marker lamps or reflectors toward the front. For trailers wider than 80 inches, three red identification lamps are required on the rear crossmember. Extra brake lights mounted up high can increase safety.
Suspension -Check that the suspension is creating at least four inches of clearance at the lowest point of your trailer. Leaf springs will wear out before the frame and may require replacement.
Tires and Bearings - Dry rot ruins most trailer tires before the treads wear out. A dry-rotted tire or one with bulges needs to be replaced. Wheel bearings shouldn't wobble or have excessive play. The good news is that replacing wheel bearings is usually a simple fix.
Brakes: - Brakes are required on most trailers rated to carry more than 3,000 pounds. If the trailer is rated to carry 3,000 pounds or more, your state will specify the type and location of brakes required. You may also be required to have an emergency breakaway cable that activates should the trailer separate from the tow vehicle.
Trailer Coupler - The coupler should have markings on the tongue telling you the ball size and its capacity. Be sure that you have an adequately rated receiver and hitch and a properly sized ball on your tow vehicle for towing the total package. If you see anything that looks unfamiliar make sure it fits with your tow vehicle.
Safety Chains - Check the safety chains to make sure that they're the right length to keep the trailer coupler from dragging on the road. A pin or a padlock that secures through the coupler latch is a good idea.
If you have been boating for a few years, I’m sure you have some stories about how your trailer let you down on the side of the road. By going through this check list, you can save yourself some grief – and make boating more enjoyable.
Calumet Marine
426 Burnham Ave.
Calumet City, IL 60409
www.calumetmarine.com 
