TOPIC:

Have a brand new Lund Tyee 1975. Didn’t anticipate adding a kicker this soon and now realize no kicker fuel line was run when it was manufactured. Dealer said they use a “T” with no issues many use to complain about in the day. Spoke to a few others to see and all seem in agreement. 

I know my dealer would just give me a T when I show up as they’re awesome but curious if anyone has experience adding this to their rigs? I was surprised to see the new Mercury Pro kickers don’t come with fuel lines or anything so any tips on that would be great. I plan to hang it myself and not terribly concerned but any suggestions and or tips would be great. Photos of similar installs etc would be appreciated. 

I just added a stainless steel tee into the fuel line to my main motor. Only been out a half dozen times, but appears to be working with no problems. I did add a separate priming bulb for the pro kicker ( the tee went in before the main motor bulb).

Most water separator/fuel filter housings have an extra port on them. Rather than splice my main fuel line and T it, I just pulled one of the 3/8" plugs off of my filter housing and put a second barbed fitting there, and ran the line over to the kicker.

I was actually trying to follow the fuel line tonight and got as far as I could reach with my arm and never found the separator. I’ll do it again in the morning and see.

I know the T works but then I heard people mention adding a ball on both motors. I’ve never had a 1115/150 let alone this 225 with a ball so that lost me. The kicker absolutely but again I’m all ears as I just want to do it right. 

Holy smokes! I took the floor off and found the factory installed 1/4 fuel tap. Only problem is how disappointed I am in Lund. The amount of crap and debris closed inside the hull was disgusting. I’ll be addressing that with Lund.

Then they add an aluminum cap to the kicker line you have to unscrew. Only problem is it’s caked with a cement or glue adhesive that doesn’t come off. I’m see if I can add photos. 

Maybe these pics will help you. I know it looks like spaghetti back there, but it’s the best I could do.

NOT MAKING ANY RECOMENDATIONS HERE 
But let me explain the potential problems of adding Ts to fuel suply systems 
there is a safety regulation thats governs fuel systems in boats it requires a anti siphon valve in fuel tank . This is to insure if a hose goes bad or is damaged in some way fuel can siphon itself into the bilge you can imagine the danger in the that . Thi s also causes the fuel to have a 2" vacume before it will take fuel from tank .And also causes  if a T  is added and the non running motor or motors that  "ALL MOTOR HAVE ONE OR THE OTHER " has a vapor seperator float valve or a carburated motor float valve  opem air will eventually makes it way into the fuel Suply of the running motor  leaning out the fuelair mixture . if your lucky it causes running issues you will notice  If you not so lucky it just one day blows the power head . easy fix add a fuel filter with two dischage lines and two shut off valves so the not running motor fuel suply can be shut of easily . Preventing a huge problem is a lot easir than fixing it later   

I agree with Honda Cat. There was a T in the fuel line on my used Lund boat when I bought it. I occasionally experienced fuel shortage on my main motor when I had the kicker hooked up. Marina explained the problem and put in a valve that lets me quickly change over from main to kicker fuel supply. Granted, I only have a 75 tiller, but I have never had a problem with either motor running great since and it has been 12 years.

Frank explained it perfectly.  Fuel/water separator- two outputs hose to each motor. 

Hey Meyers 9163- I think if your marina did the rigging on your new boat,  which btw is an awesome rig,  then they should have been the ones cleaning it out, maybe take it up with them first.  That debris will clog up and blow a fuse on a bilge pump in no time, glad you caught it. 
Also that white stuff on the threads is probably pipe dope- it stiffens up but shouldn't solidify- if you get a wrench on there it should give and spin off.
Now after you get that kicker on, I highly recommend a servo controlled throttle ( Itroll, controllking,trollmaster)
If you are running Lowrance graphs i also highly recommend tying that kicker to the main and putting in a Lowrance autopilot.  I normally troll with kicker straight and use my Terrova to steer but when it gets rough i stow the Terrova and fire up the Lowrance autopilot- what a nice system. 

Have to agree with what's been said. If there is not a spin on fuel and water separator/filter, I would add one and use those ports. I had earlier just assumed that it would have had one from the factory.

As to what Ltrain said about a servo controlled throttle, it is an amazing feature with a kicker. I am definitely missing my trollmaster/T8 combo on the new boat.