TOPIC:

 I finally broke down and started to setup a copper line rig. I have some rigging questions for the seasoned copper users. I bought an Okuma Coldwater 303DS and an Okuma leadcore/copper rod for this setup . I have 300' 32# copper and 50# braid backer
I'm already in for @200 bucks so I want to set it up right! I would hate to lose it on first deployment...
Lot's of conflicting opinions so I need some trusted input from seasoned wire fisherman on this site.

1: line connections from mono/backing to copper - albright knot or spro mini swivels?
2: do you add a length of mono between backer and wire to attach planer board clip ?
3: do you reverse the clip on the Church walleye boards to prevent releases?
4: will the walleye board handle 300' of 32# copper?
5: will the copper kink at the rod tip if you choose to not deploy all 300' and run it down the chute? Do I need a twilli tip?
6: how long of a leader do you run?

thanks in advance for your input

Here are my opinions - everyone is a little different:

1: line connections from mono/backing to copper - albright knot or spro mini swivels? Spro
2: do you add a length of mono between backer and wire to attach planer board clip ?  No
3: do you reverse the clip on the Church walleye boards to prevent releases? Have wrapped clip and also replaced plastic pin with metal pin and wrap that.  Metal pin greatly preferred.
4: will the walleye board handle 300' of 32# copper?  Yep - it will lag back a bit, but it will work no problem.
5: will the copper kink at the rod tip if you choose to not deploy all 300' and run it down the chute? Do I need a twilli tip?  No twilli tip needed for copper.  Just for wire dipsies (unless you go with a roller tip).   Always deploy all of your copper / lead if its on a board.  If obtaining alot of setups is a challenge, then, while not preferred, you can segment your copper or lead with sections of mono. It can work, but certainly not ideal. Every knot is a potential point of failure.  The less the better.
6: how long of a leader do you run?  20-30'

 Set up  coppers for full deployment. If you dont deploy the whole lenghth you have a heavy line between rod tip and board catching waves and are likely to break off even with a twilli tip. Switch to ninja boards and no need for mono spliced in with braid backing. Notice all the walleye boards for sale. There are ten for sale in classifieds. Not knocking them but if you are new to the game just get ninja boards and don't look back. It will save in the long run. Same goes for leadcore. If you are trying to optimize diversity in your rod setups go to Russelsfishingtech on YouTube and look at pumphandle setups not my favorite but it gets you in the game with 6 to 8 rods.

As Leavitt said, coppers/leads on boards = full deployment.  Down the chute, do whatever you want, it matters not. In the grand scheme, don't clip copper or lead in your planer.   Ninjas are certainly my choice these days, regardless, church is something I used for years and they were wonderful, as they run fantastic for any setup.  As far as "Russelsfishingtech" - might want to pump the breaks on that one.

Just adding another club to the bag. I already have 4 electric riggers, braid dipseys, lead core and about a dozen boards. Honestly I still produce alot of my fish on downrigger and free sliders.

I appreciate the feedback and hope that the fight feels better on the copper than the core.

I would expect the fight feels the same on copper and lead core.  There should be little to no stretch, so just as responsive as braid generally speaking.  The unfortunate part of the fight is having the planer board attached for half the fight, unless its a nice king.  Nothing more exciting and nerve wracking than a big king full of piss and vinegar that takes 1000 feet of line and buries your board at some point!   I would say overall, sliders can be effective for us, but our best rods typically are boards (copper or lead) just below, in, or just above, the thermocline.  That and bottom rigs for lakers which can at times be absolutely nonstop action.   We are talking offshore here, not inshore in early spring. 

Also - I said Twilli Tip as a response earlier, that is incorrect and I am modifying what I wrote.  I was thinking wire for whatever reason (too much on my mind).  You dont need anything special for copper. 

If you are just starting with copper, you might want to consider weighted steel instead of copper wire. Similar dive curve, much more user friendly.  A bit more expensive, but you'll likely make that back the first time you get a copper tangle.  That will be like the first or second time you use it. I don't know anyone who tries weighted steel and ever goes back to copper. 

As far as fight - both copper and steel are more fun to catch fish with than lead core. 

As far as the boards hanging on the line - Go Big Boards - I easily run 2 long lines off each side.  It's not the meat, it's the sport. 

Plus one on what Jeff wrote. If I can make a suggestion on the copper fishing wire, the best stuff I have found is the nickel plated copper sold by Blood Run. Really good stuff and lays a bunch flatter on your reel compared to the others I have tried. Also I use a four stranded braid as a backing. No memory and lasts for years.

I have it spooled and ready for action. I went with the 32# Blood Run and 50lb. braid backer. I also used the Spro swivels and shrink wrap for terminations. It looks good and I am ready for some fishing weather to give it a go. I did consider the steel option, but got a good deal on the copper wire on clearance. I really hate catching fish on leadcore so my full core may get converted as well.
 I am with Brother nature - it is all about the fight with me. I run light line and rods - 15# Big game for just about everything and rely on my drag and line capacity. I have even lighter walleye sized stuff I run for Coho in the spring. Spring Kings somehow always seem to find the lightest rod in my spread.... but that makes it even more fun
 I already have at least a dozen inline boards that I have rescued from the lake over the years - small easily maneuvered boat helps! Only two had contact info and both were quite a long distance from where I found them. I used to have a mast and big board setup long ago on another boat. Has anyone had experience with the Big Jon Otterboat?
Just curious. Thanks to all for comments and suggestions - much appreciated