TOPIC:

So for anyone that need to justify a kicker (you know, for the accountant in your life) there are the normal reasons; better speed control = more fish, able to get to the lower MPH, less hours on the big motor, having a second motor for if your main one dies in the middle of the lake.

Today I was fishing a small lake and I noticed when uncovering the boat that my front depth finder was on. OK maybe I hit the power button when I was uncovering it so turned if off and thought nothing of it. A couple of hours into fishing my depth finder shuts off and will not turn on and I notice the front one is off also. turn the key to kick over the big motor and I get the dreaded grown of the starter and nothing. Look at the Power gauge and sure enough- main battery is dead. Crap - not the end of the world but going to be long ride back to the launch under just trolling motor. So I go to the kicker and had just enough power to start it so I did not have to pull start it (although I have pull start on it). Let it run for a little while and get my live well and fish finders back. Go back to fishing and then just had to run the kicker for about another 10 minutes to get the big motor able to fire up.
Granted I could have always pulled a trolling motor battery and used it or I could have trolled back, but it was one of those things that made me go - man I am glad I got that kicker!! Nothing worth talking about fish wise from the trip - fished ponderosa for the first time - no skunk but nothing worth writing about other then a gorgeous day (other than the winds).

Had that happen to me perch fishing last year. I was almost to MI City. Had to run on the kicker for an hour before the big girl would start up. I apparently was not paying attention to my voltage

In Ed's case his alternator didn't seem to be the culprit. Not sure about Jeff's. Below is a blog I posted in Michigan Outdoor News. Could be a day saver or even life saver.

There’s a good way and a usual way to learn the starting battery in your boat has been run down. The good way is to check it the night before you plan to go fishing, find the battery dead and have time to find out why the battery lost its power and to recharge it before your planned departure.

The usual way is you pile your gear in the boat, load up fellow fishermen, turn the key and then get a sad look on your face when nothing happens. The usual problem, at least on my boat, is often because some battery-powered devise – light, pump, radio or other – was left on at the end of the last fishing trip or inadvertently switched on between then and now. It’s seldom the battery’s fault or a loose connection, bad starter switch or corroded wires, although those have all occurred on my boat at one time or another.

On land, a pair of jumper cables and a spare vehicle can save the day. On the water, if you have a set of long jumper cables and if there’s a friendly fellow boater at the launch ramp you may be in business. But don’t count on it.

What you can count on is what I call a “Tote-a-Jolt.” It’s basically a portable, 12V battery with an attached set of battery clamps. The battery has enough power to run the starter on a car or boat.

I don’t leave home without one and I don’t leave home without two of them when I’m heading for the lake. My original model is about the size, shape and weight of a bowling ball bag. Packing it along isn’t much of an issue in my tow vehicle, but there isn’t a convenient place to stow it on my boat. Still, it’s nice to have along when the “usual” dead battery situation occurs. Hike back to the truck, grab the booster and we are soon in business.

As with most electronics, these things have shrunk. I now have a tote-a-jolt that stays on the boat, mostly out of sight, out of mind. Using some sort of new-age battery technology, not counting the wires and battery clamps, it’s about the size of a paperback novel.

I’ve used the on-board tote-a-jolt exactly once for the “usual” reason since I got it. I’ve used it multiple times to power-up a low cell phone battery or for the built-in flashlight feature.

Several brands and models are available. The ones–– I have each cost less than $60.

NOTE: I've now used it to jump start the Suburban - 350 engine - spun it over like it was a full-sized battery.

In my case I ran the battery down a little to much in a few hours of perching having too much crap on. Two sonar units, stereo, marine radio. I had low voltage alarms set on my lowrance at 11.2V I believe. The voltage never got to that level, but once it got below 11.5 or so it could no longer supply the 1,000 MCA that the Optimax requires to start.

I purchased the following after doing a lot of research, they make 3 different sizes, I bought the middle size works great. It is small, easy to charge (12 v cigarette supply in car) and keeps a charge for a long time. This one turned over a neighbors boat engine 454 for a few minutes.

NOCO GENIUSE BOOST & JUMP STARTER GB40 LITHIUM 1000 AMP 12 VOLT

The one I bought had a review that I guy claimed to jump 18 cars with it before needed to recharge. that's way more than my "bowling ball" sized unit would do. Also has handy recepticals to charge phones, a cig lighter power socket and a flashlight. Lordy, if it had a radio to listen to Click and Clack it would have it all..... I think it's a 1000.

I carry jumper cables in the boat. Hopefully if that ever happens I can jump myself from my trolling batteries.
I would like a kicker someday tho.

Amen!!