TOPIC:

When you troll for coho with Thin Fish and other crank baits, do you use a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap on the business end? Or do you use a duolock snap? I use a duolock snap without a ball bearing swivel when pulling crankbaits (particularly Thin Fins and Thin Fish) and a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap when pulling spoons. I was taught to use duolock snaps for crankbaits because a duolock snap is lighter than a snap with a ball-bearing swivel and supposedly allows the crankbait to have the proper action by not restricting movements at its nose. On the other hand, conventional wisdom taught me to use a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap for spoons because the ball-bearing swivel prevented line twist and allowed the spoon to have optimal action. 

I usually use a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap when trolling on Lake Michigan in the summer and fall because I use a lot of spoons and flashers and flies. In the spring, however, I never know whether to rig the business end of my lines with a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap or with a duolock snap without a ball bearing swivel because I'm frequently exchanging spoons and crankbaits on any given rod while on the water. 

I want to streamline the trolling process as much as I can without compromising technique. Do you just use a ball-bearing swivel with coastlock snap regardless of whether you're pulling spoons or crankbaits? Or do you tie on a duolock snap for crankbaits? Does it even matter? Thanks for your insights.
 

I subscribe to the theory that you keep everything as simple as possible.  I use Spro Ball Bearings with Coastlocks on everything I run. I dont ever change them because of the lure.  They are small and strong and dont affect presentation.  Are they a bit pricey - yep.  Do I ever have to think about them?  Nope!

Here is what I use: www.fishusa.com/SPRO-Ball-Bearing-Swivel...antity=1&L-Size1=549

I am sure there are varying opinions, and I am sure mine is just one in a sea of many that are good.

What size do you use? Size 2 (45 lbs), size 3 (60 lbs), or size 4 (100 lbs)? I have a very hard time opening the size 2 because it is so small.

Size 2 sure do suck on a cold March or early April morning when the finger tips go numb. That being said I do use them on my setups

Size 4 (100lbs).  I do like smaller ones because of their size and weight (maybe) but I have found them more difficult to use, and had the occasional failure mostly when opening them too wide to get them on a spoon.  I think the failures are due to the snap being so small that we often open it far too wide and significant bending and fatigue stresses set in.  As a Mechanical Engineer speculating, I would say Spro's are a lower carbon steel (maybe even heat treated) which makes them stronger, but also less flexible.  Over flex them and it will not be long until you have a failure.  Use them without having to force them open and they will last forever and hold up to whatever you give them.

I use BB swivels on any lure which spins or can spin - spoons, flashers, dodgers - etc.  All plugs,cranks are tied direct - thought on lures like Rapalas that don't have a split ring, I add a split ring.  

BNature wrote:

I use BB swivels on any lure which spins or can spin - spoons, flashers, dodgers - etc.  All plugs,cranks are tied direct - thought on lures like Rapalas that don't have a split ring, I add a split ring.  

I agree. We also change out all split rings with heavy Worth co. spring steel rings on crankbait and stickbaits.  A lot of body bait rings damage easily in the net and on the occasional big steelhead or king.   We use #4 ball bearing coast locks on anything that spins and all spoons.  I also tie J plugs directly to the bead chain.  

Thanks for the replies.

BNature and StormJunkie, you two guys seem to go the extra mile. Do you use a Rapala knot when you tie the leader directly to the crankbaits or plug? I’m sure you tie direct because you think the crankbait/plug has better action that way, which is what my question is driving at. I wonder if duolock snaps allow the same freedom of motion as tying directly to the crankbait. Not sure.

I wanna streamline the process and make it quick and easy to switch out lures. At the same time
I don’t wanna compromise crankbait action. 

These are the questions that keep me up at night.

I don't use the Rapala knot. On the few baits that don't come with a split ring on the line tie loop, I just add a split ring. Then, if I'm tying traditional mono, I use a palomar knot.  If I'm tying lure to fluorocarbon I use the fluorocarbon knot - plenty of YouTube demos - it's the one which ends up with three tag ends to trim off.  .

Normally I tie a palomar knot to split rings and swivel eyelets when using mono. I use an improved clinch knot when tying fluorocarbon or braid.  I don't think using a small duolock affects the action of most body baits. We use the larger #4 ball bearing swivel with a coast lock and I'm not comfortable attaching it to the nose of a body bait. Just my opinion.