TOPIC:

What line were you using? And where were the failure points? Nick in line? Kinot? If at knot, what knots are you using? I have honestly never had a single failure on long lines and have always run 20lb test. I check and re-tie a few times a year, but by no means religious.

Nicks in the line. Cabelas seaguar leader material. Breaks offs were 99 percent nicks. I think my break off issues were more my own user errors than anything else. But upping the test a little with the seafuar from 20 to 30 the problem went away. But I like the blood run line best and have had no issues with 25 lbs test.

Jums, I'm sure you've seen this elsewhere. Although it's not as critical with 2-3 color setups, if you've got some longer 5, 7 or 10 colors. I'll run the leader, leadcore and backing backward onto one spool. That way if I've got 2 setups I'm using, I know how much backing I need for the second reel. I record the backing length so I know for next time how much I can fit on a specific spool. I also use 30' of 25# fluoro for leader material. I've got a few rods I'll run with 15-20 fluoro leader, especially if I make the trip out to Erie for walleye.

Jums as you can see from the responses it is a lot of personal preference. Back in the early days we used 30#test for main and leader line. I switched to 20# test when I got out of chartering as I have always been more of a light tackle for fun fishing. In my opinion with the advancements in line 20# is more than enough for the big lake but you should run your finger up the leader after each fish to check for Knicks, I usually check 4-5ft. I would also highly recommend fluorocarbon for leaders and use a mono backing do to the ease of the willis knot and running on boards the clips hold better on mono due to thickness. Something else that hasn't been mentioned and as you are new to then game, you can segment the line to give you more flexibility with out having to have a bunch of gear. What that means is putting on some backing to a section of core to 10ft of mono to another section of core to a leader. So if you say put a section of 2 color and a section of 3 with a section of mono in between you can let out the first section and would have a point to connect the board clip to run shallower or let out both sections to run deeper.

netminder34 wrote:

Back in the early days we used 30#test for main and leader line. I switched to 20# test when I got out of chartering as I have always been more of a light tackle for fun fishing.

For the fisherman, what would be the noticeable difference between 20# and 25# test, or for that matter 30# flouro leaders? Visibility shouldn't be an issue with flouro either.

20# test isn't exactly a stealthy light tackle approach.

I've become a big fan of segmenting leadcore so I can target different depths with a single rod. You never want to clip lead or copper into a boar so splicing in a couple sections of 50-100 feet of braid or mono really helps. buy the best and biggest reeel you can afford. Bigger reels pick up more line per crank and you'll really appreciate higher quality reels when it comes to cranking in big fish on long lines. SC, IMHO, the big difference in runnnng lighter line is not stealth, but lure action. A meat rig will run fine on 40lb leader, but you clip on a SS spoon and it's probably going to look a bit stiff coming through the water.. I do like heavy leaders from dodger or flasher to fly to transmit action, but in general my rigging rule of thumb is to have the line get lighter going down to the fish, 30lb backing, 27lb leadcore, 20lb leader, then my bait. That way I can minimize what's lost in a breakoff situation, at least in theory. For clipping on boards, I go with the advice I picked up from a Best Chance 2 video, keep the clip on point tight above your lead or copper. That way you know right where to look for line damage and only have to clip out that final couple feet to reitie.

I can't agree more with you as far as too heavy of a line for the leader. That is the main reason I like the 25lbs test bloodrun line it is smooth,thin,strong, flexable, and does not seem to knick up as bad as other lines with a little stronger line. As far as snapping off with heavier to lighter I can see the theory but we're talking about heavy strong lines it's going to break at the weakest point. That maybe a knot terminal tackle or a Knicks. I have made a lot of dumb mistakes and have lost a lot of stuff over the last few years. But last year I lost very little and last year is when I changed a few things. But I think the advise to start at 30 lbs backing 27 lbs lead then 20 or 25 lbs leader is good advice. Then from there someone can change per there experiences wants and needs. My personal opinion on segments of lead or copper to save from buying more reels. Is I am not a fan there is so many more joints to break or fail between knots or swivels. But I can understand completely why someone just getting into fishing long lines may do it bc of the expense. But ultimately I would recommend buying reels and setting each up with the amount of lead or copper you want. But don't get me wrong segments of lead or copper will work just fine. Then you don't have to have 2 bags full of reels like me.

No one is running, or even suggested, 40-50lb leaders to terminal tackle from the leadcore to the terminal tackle.

I have not noticed a difference in the fish catching productivity between 20#, 25#, and 30# long line leaders. If 20# leaders had been more productive I would have switched back a long time ago.

And to think that 14lb. test is something many have used even when we caught kings that were well over 20lbs. Never had any issues. glad I have good drags. Biggest king for our family my wife caught at 32lbs was taken with 14lb line must have been just lucky.

Lickety-Split wrote:

And to think that 14lb. test is something many have used even when we caught kings that were well over 20lbs. Never had any issues. glad I have good drags. Biggest king for our family my wife caught at 32lbs was taken with 14lb line must have been just lucky.

Congrats.
Will all due respect, totally irrelevant to this topic.