TOPIC:

SafeCracker wrote:

I have a question for you big board guys...do you run them with an offshore setup? As in long leads and coppers? I just can't seem to get my head around how you'd run a 100, 150, 200 and 300 copper off of one side.

I get how they'd go out initially but how would you pull in the 300 without clearing everything inside of it once it makes its way to being the outside line?

Just curious is all.

Using the big boards is not like using inline and will not work running multiple depth rods. You can get away with a few feet difference but they are utilized when you are fishing in a specific water column such as the top 15ft. They use them for walleye, steelhead, and spring coho as the fish are concentrated in a few feet of water and are targeted with baits fishing that water depth. Letting the walleye take the bait back after the release allows for the line to clear the baits reducing tangles. Steelhead will usually rise and jump after a hook-up clearing the lines, coho similar. After the fish is landed any rods on the board line can be let out to fill in the spaces and the hooked up rod gets rest on the inside. Also important to run the rods at similar leader lengths to prevent bad tangles. This is a pretty condensed version but should give everyone the concept.

Hope this setup works. Got my mast built today and the boards sealed.
Anyone if the wire cable that comes with a mini down rigger will be strong enough?

Not sure what # test the rigger line is. But the planer line I use is dacron in I believe a 200# test. I've not seen anyone use steel cable for there main line. Not saying it wouldn't work. Guessing someone else could chime in with a yea or nay. I know I've been looking at getting some Amish Outfitter Spectra line in 500# test. Not sure if the Dacron has any stretch to it but I'm guessing it helps act as a small shock absorber for when the waves grab the board. Some guys use heavy duty snubbers as well for real hard pulling boards.

Tether Cable: I use nylon string, widely available, used as chalk lines or mason's line at building sites to outline or mark stuff. Comes in white, bright yellow, orange and other colors. I think it's #18 but I don't know if that's an industry standard or just the number of the string I buy at the local True Value. It has some stretch in it which is an advantage in choppy waves. I think running a big board on wire (no stretch) wouldn't work so hot.

I will say, all nylon string is not equal. I've had some that lasts a couple years before it wears out, the next spool starts showing wear after a few trips. Has to do with the 'softness" of the nylon fibers, I think. Most is very good, just the odd spool that doesn't give good service. It's cheap enough to replace if you get a lousy spool.

Long Lines: I use the big boards for up to 300' coppers and 10 color leadcores all summer long. I run two long lines off each side of the boat. I usually put a pair of coppers on one side and a pair of leadcores on the other, shortest one goes on first and is run almost out to the board, longer one inside. Occasionally, I'll mix 'cores and coppers on the same side, again putting the deeper one on the inside, for example, a 7 color out by the board, a 200 copper half way to the planer.

Catch a fish on the outside line? Reel in the inside line, stick it out the opposite side of the boat as a flat line while you reset the longer, deeper line, then once it's set, redeploy the inside planer line.

Sure it's easier to use in-lines but if you are after easy, just go to the fish market and buy fish. If you just need a cardio work out as you get from cranking a fish and 100 yards of copper or leadcore with a Wally Board on the line, just go to the gym.

To each his own. I catch plenty of fish with only four long-lines and though I'll admit, long coppers and cores aren't the most sporting method, they are effective. Pulling cores and coppers with big boards at least allows the angler to feel the fish at the beginning of the fight when it's strongest.

Didn't look at the photo. Now I have. Since you are obviously talented enough to DIY your rig, I have one suggestion. First, the boards look very nice, I'm sure they'll work just fine.

On your mast, try what you have but I doubt you'll be able to turn as sharp as you want without having the tether line push on the fishing rods in their holders along each gunwale. One option is to go longer on the mast. I've never done this but you'd probably have to be pretty darned high - like 12 or 15 feet. An easier option is to lengthen the horizontal "tee" piece at the top to the width of your boat or even a bit wider.

I seen a neat variation on the attachment point on the board. Instead of using an eye bolt and several holes spaced out for different water conditions the board builder attached a 6 inch length of small linked chain bolted to the board side. He also used a large rigger type coastlock for hooking up the board chain to the tether. Quick and easy adjustments looks like to me.

BNature wrote:

One option is to go longer on the mast. I've never done this but you'd probably have to be pretty darned high - like 12 or 15 feet.

I hope you were joking about this suggestion. Sometimes I miss the sarcasm.

Being a plumber and understanding the torque difference from let's say a 18" pipe wrench to a 36" pipe wrench is a astronomical difference. The torque on the side of a boat with big boards pulling on let's say a 10 foot high mast I can guarantee you will need boat repairs the first time the board hits a 2 foot wave. I will admit I do not know much about the big boards other than the principle on how they work. But a tall mast I don't think I would do.

Mike what did you use to extend yout mast out to the sides? I understand what you mean. If you extend the T bar to the out side area of the boat, decreases the pinch point by having the mast centered on a turn. The mast line wants to go over your head and touch up against rods. So by extending the mast T to the sides helps eliminate mast lines traveling over head at angle on turns, also helping keep them from rods. So the only other way to eliminated the issue other then extending the T length is to increase the mast length.

We fished the mast system with big boards during the summer and had no issues fishing long copper of lead core this way.

Had always dragged small walleye boards before but really like working with the big board mast system. Its like anything else when you get used to it everything becomes easier to manage. Also can fish much lighter rods and enjoy the fish alittle more.

It's really hard to say if a long mast would be an issue like that or not. It depends on the boat and overall setup. The amount of force generated at the boat (moment/torque) would be force (top) * distance. So if if you hit a big wave, with a big board and no line give - lets say it generated the equivalent of a 50lb pulling force (momentarily). On a 15 foot mast, your looking at 750 ft lbs at the boat connection. This is just one example as I am sure forces can easily be higher at times.

I would consider this fairly significant on some boats and a non issue on others. Not necessarily because of the instantaneous stress, but rather fatigue over time. There are also localized shear stresses to take into account.